Construction Update 2.5

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager
and  Gregorios Rios – 3S modeling

 This a follow up to the previous blog posted. In this blog, I will be discussing in details how I got the LCD controller to work. As mentioned before, there were multiple issues associated with the LCD panel. This blog will be broken into different sections targeting the different issues.

 1.      Arduino IDE:
The first step is to make sure that the Arduino IDE is connected to the correct board. In our case, the board used is the “Arduino Mega 2560”

 fig1

The other step is to make sure that the serial port is the one that the board is connected to. If the COM port is different, there will be no connection between the board and the computer.

The bottom right corner of the Arduino IDE states the board that the COM port is communicating with.

 fig2

2.      Firmware:
By downloading the Marlin firmware, the default motherboard was “7” and needed to be changed to “33” which is the board we are using.

// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) “https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics”
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3  = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 4  = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5  = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6  = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 7  = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 8  = Teensylu
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9  = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33  // 33 is for Ramps 1.3 and 1.4
#endif

 3.      Hardware:
Connection pins had to be soldered on the RAMPS 1.4 in order to establish connection between the LCD controller and the RAMPS 1.4.

 4.      Power Issue:
Another issue we’re facing is dealing with the power supply. The LCD controller won’t remain ON when we disconnect the PC connection to the board. After some research, it appeared that the RAMPS 1.4 is missing a diode that would make the LCD controller on without the PC connection.

Therefore, 1N4004 diode will be soldered on the RAMPS 1.4, and that will solve the power issue.

fig3

The middle indicated rectangle is where the diode going to be soldered.

5.      Conclusion:
Other than this, the LCD controller is a very neat feature that the printer is going to have. All of the other functions were verified like adjusting the axis, temperature, and the fans. After soldering the diode, the LCD controller will be a 100% working and ready to function without any issues.

Construction Update 2.0

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager

Up to this point, our team has been working on two main features of the 3D printer: the frame and the heat bed. After receiving the frame, our team has started assembling it and getting it ready to transfer the electronics to the new frame. The frame needed multiple parts to be printed that were printed with the help of Michael Pluma.  

The frame of the printer, both the old one and the new one, use rods for smooth movements of stepper motors. In order to transfer those rods to the new frame, the rods were sanded, cleaned, and cut for better appearance and better fit. So far, the frame is almost 90% done and just need some minor changes until it is finally ready.

 Fig.1

Fig.1: Pieces of the frame before assembly.

Fig.2 

Fig.2: The frame at about 90% completion.

The heat bed, on the other hand, is going to be the same, but will include a minor change. The aluminum plate, which forms the surface of the heat bed, was cleaned and sanded for better appearance. The base of the heat bed, or the heart of the heat bed, will have a newer look. We found the insulator material used, few pieces of cloth, is giving the base an unwanted thickness as well as an unattractive look. Therefore, the cloth will be removed and replaced by polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulated sheathing.

Fig.3 

Fig.3: The surface plate before cleaning and sanding.

Fig.4

Fig.4: The plate after sanding and cleaning. It now has a much better, smooth look and surface.

With the previous frame, the heat bed had four screw holes on the sides as can be seen in figure 5. The heat bed cannot be implemented with the same screws; therefore, the heat bed must be given new screw positions. 

Sasha’s Under Construction

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit, Project Manager

While waiting for the frame to be cut and ready for installation, our group has taken a step to save time and minimize any delay due to certain circumstances. The first upgrade that the advanced 3D printer team started working on was the LCD controller. We thought this upgrade was going to be the easiest; unfortunately, it took quite a while to get the LCD controller to work. There were multiple issues that we had to fix before the LCD controller got to work. The issues were mainly regarding the firmware and software updates/installation. Details regarding the issues we encountered will follow in a separate blog. Also, the solutions to those issues will be available along with the way our 3D modeler used in order to fix them.

Fig1 

Fig.1: The LCD controller before it worked.

 The LCD controller, as mentioned on a previous blog, offers some nice features such as controlling the axis, temperatures, and the heated bed. Almost every aspect of the 3D printer can now be controlled via the LCD controller. The g-code can also be uploaded on a SD card to free print without using a PC. This means we’ll have to consider the possibility of error prints and find away to stop the printer remotely.

 Fig2

 Fig..2

 Fig3

Fig.3

Figures 2 and 3 show the LCD controller after it worked.

Updated Upgrade Parts List

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By Gregorio Rios – 3D Modeling

The tables below show the additional parts needed for the upgrades. As we advance in building, we may need additional parts. 

Bearings
bearings

Motors & couplings
motors

Electronics
electronics

Rods
Threaded rods
Only 2 M5 threaded rods are needed:  (WE HAVE)

  • 2x Threaded rod M5x295 mm

Smooth rods
6 Smooth rods are needed of the following sizes:

  • 2x Ø8×375 mm for X-Axis (WE HAVE, BUT ARE 500MM LONG. WE CAN LEAVE THEM OR CUT THEM)
  • 2x Ø8×341 mm for Y-Axis (WE HAVE)
  • 2x Ø8×320 mm for Z-Axis (WE HAVE)

Sanding

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By Gregorio Rios – 3D Modeling

3D printed objects, whether they are ABS or PLA plastic will require a method to smooth out the surface.  There will always be visible lines on the surface of the printing objects. These lines on the surface are from the layers of plastic being printed one on top of another. There are different methods for smoothing the surface, but at this time sanding will be our choice.

Before sanding, check for imperfections since printed object will always have small parts that stick out and will have to be removed. Knifes, pliers, scissors and abrasive files will come in handy for the imperfections before sanding. Remove any plastic strings or imperfections that stick out with a small sharp or little scissors.

 files

If there are any bulges on the print, use files to remove these imperfections.  Using a Dremel multi tool could also be very useful for grinding, cleaning to remove imperfections and even sanding. Now that the imperfections are gone, now it’s time to get to sanding.

 drem

As a precaution use a mask or respirator when sanding. Start by sanding the surface of the 3D printed part with a 100 or 150-grit sand papers (of Dremel wheels) then 220, 320 fine, 500 super fine, and then use a micron-grade grits to erase sanding marks. When sanding the surfaces, do so in a circular motion until it is smooth and flat to the touch. Pay attention to the act of sanding and do not rush just finish sanding the surface. Do not go too fine too fast or you will round over the plastic ridges without actually flattening them.

 sand

Use a heat gun after sanding the surface. Gently warm the surface until it melts slightly, which will erase many of the smaller scratches and restore the original printed color.

 heat

If you would like to paint it use 3 to 4 coats primer before color paint. Make sure that the primer is completely dry before masking off any undesired parts that you do not want to color. Be sure that the masked edges are firmly taped on and sharp. Start with a light color coat as well as a light sanding (600 grit) between each coat. Spray 3 to 4 more coats of color spray paint (or airbrush) on desired areas. 

 lizard

REFERENCES:

http://makezine.com/projects/make-34/skill-builder-finishing-and-post-processing-your-3d-printed-objects/

http://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/Post_processing_of_3D_polymer_prints

Acetone Vapor Bath

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager

After researching some of the techniques for smoothing the surface of a printed object, we made a conclusion that acetone vapor bath is one of the simplest ways for achieving the desired goal. Up to this point, we do not have the 3D printer to perform this experiment, so some simple equipment and materials will be used for now.

The Process:
The way the acetone vapor bath works is very simple. First of all, the reason of this process is to get rid of the horizontal lines of a printed object.

BLOGFig.1 (2)
Fig.1

A smoother surface is a lot better looking than those horizontal lines, and smoother surface means stronger shine and therefore, higher resolution. The acetone bath works only on ABS plastic.

BlLOGig2
Fig.2

The process is as follows:

Screenshot (15)

The time to leave any object in the bath varies because bigger objects may need extended times.

The Tools:

  • Acetone – when heated to a boiling state, it melts out the plastic
  • Electric Hot plate – easier to maintain heat
  • Aluminum foil – so object doesn’t stick to the base
  • Glass jar or glass teapot – to put the object inside
  • Food can – make base out of any aluminum food can so object doesn’t have direct contact with acetone; a hook can also be made out of an aluminum hanger

 1_HOTPLAT1

 

blog2)

 

blog3

 

LAST

Cost Schedule Version 1.0

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager

 

#

Part

Price Range

1.

Heated Bed Upgrade

$30 – $50

2.

All Metal Hot End

$100

3.

Surface Toning

TBD

4.

LCD Panel

$50 – $70

5.

2x NEMA 17 Stepper-Motor

$20

6.

2x M2.5 x 12mm Bolts

$0.64

7.

M2.5 Nuts

$0.60

8.

TowerPro SG-90 Mini Servo

$3.49

9.

OMRON SS-5 Micro switch

$1.75
 

 

 Total = $270
       


The costs above are only an estimate. The table will more likely change in the future, especially as we start to actually build, test, and design the 3D printer and the needed parts.

Dual Extruder Head 3D Printer

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager

 One of our main objectives is to add an additional extruder head to the 3D printer. The dual extruder upgrade will remove any shape restrictions. There are many shapes that the single extruder head will not be able to print. The dual extruder head will allow us to print using dissolvable support structures such as HIPS and PVA. Having multiple extruders allows us to have multiple filaments ‘piped in’ and ready to be used whenever the object being printed requires them, and this is where the saved time comes from. Another advantage of having dual extruders is the ability to print in two different colors by using multiple filaments.

Fig.1

Besides the advantage of dual extruders, there is a limitation for dual extruders. According to “3D printer prices” “The limitations of multiple extruders come as a result of the different extruders currently sharing the same print head. Since each extruder is locked to one another and unable to move independently, more material could only be printed if the object required a symmetrical object to be printed the exact distance apart from the original, as the two extruders are positioned.” Until the extruders can move independently, the benefits of duel extruders come only from having multiple materials readily available.

The dual extruders when operated by the RAMPS card and the Arduino Mega 2560 will result in smoother, higher quality prints. The RAMPS card is dual extruder ready and will not need additional shields or boards. The attached designs and pictures show how the design is going to look like for the dual extruders.

Our plan for the dual extruder is to make a duplicate copy of the existing extruder head. The stepper motor will not be attached to the nozzle head directly because this will take space and will make heads heavy. Instead, the stepper motors will be held in a specific way, as can be seen in Fig.3; fig.2 shows how stepper motors are put on most designs, which is not the correct way of placing them. This method makes the extruder heads heavier and a lot slower than what Fig.3 demonstrate.

Fig.2

Fig.2

 

9.IMG_0704_preview_featured
Fig.3

There will be a more detailed study regarding dual extruder heads and whether we are going to use support material or an extra color. The future blog will also include more specifications regarding the new dual head.

Heated Bed Upgrade

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager

This research study is targeting the heated bed technology for 3D printers. Advantages and disadvantages will be analyzed in depth in this blog. First of all, there are many reasons why every 3D printer needs a heated bed. Heated beds are used because they dramatically improve the quality of the printed object. The quality is greatly improved because heated beds keep the extruded plastic warm and as a result, prevent warping. The main reason why a heated bed must be added is to prevent warping. Warping is a common condition caused by plastic on the edges of the part cooling down at an uneven rate when compared to the plastic inside of the part. The result is that corners warp up and deform your model.

10.bad3dprinting

Heated beds work by keeping the object warm during the whole printing process which keeps the material at or above heat-deflection temperature. Keeping the parts in the heat-deflection range ensures that the part remains flat on the print bed. There are multiple types of heated beds such as:

10.aluminumCladResistors

Aluminum Clad Resistors

    • Cheap price compared to other types
    • Handles both types PLA and ABS
    • 12V powered

Figure1. ACR Heated Bed

  • PCB Heat Bed
    • Even heat distribution
    • Simple implementation
    • Small space required
    • Lightweight
    • More expensive than the Aluminum Clad Resistors
    • Has two sides: top side is safer, while the bottom side is more effective and heats up quicker

 

  • Silicon Heating Mat
    • Fast heating and reliable
    • Very low height
    • Easy to install
    • Integrated thermostat

10.siliconHeatingMat
Figure3. Silicon Heating Mat

 

The following table shows the deflection points for the PLA and ABS:

PLA

ABS

50-60⁰C

100-110⁰C

In general, adding a heated bed platform will greatly improve reliability, which is one of our main objectives.  The only exception where we are not going to need a heated bed is that if we use Nylon as our printing material. If Nylon is used, a wooden platform is enough for the object to remain stable on the platform.

Dual Extruder Head 3D Printer

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By Mustafa Alkhulaitit – Project Manager

9.duel-extruder-3d-printer

One of our main objectives is to add an additional extruder head to the 3D printer. The dual extruder upgrade will remove any shape restrictions. There are many shapes that the single extruder head will not be able to print. The dual extruder head will allow us to print using dissolvable support structures such as HIPS and PVA. Having multiple extruders allows us to have multiple filaments ‘piped in’ and ready to be used whenever the object being printed requires them, and this is where the saved time comes from. Another advantage of having dual extruders is the ability to print in two different colors by using multiple filaments.

9.Mk8_Extruders_preview_featured

Besides the advantage of dual extruders, there is a limitation for dual extruders. According to “3D printer prices” “The limitations of multiple extruders come as a result of the different extruders currently sharing the same print head. Since each extruder is locked to one another and unable to move independently, more material could only be printed if the object required a symmetrical object to be printed the exact distance apart from the original, as the two extruders are positioned.” Until the extruders can move independently, the benefits of duel extruders come only from having multiple materials readily available.

The dual extruders when operated by the RAMPS card and the Arduino Mega 2560 will result in smoother, higher quality prints. The RAMPS card is dual extruder ready and will not need additional shields or boards. The attached designs and pictures show how the design is going to look like for the dual extruders.

Our plan for the dual extruder is to make a duplicate copy of the existing extruder head. The stepper motor will not be attached to the nozzle head directly because this will take space and will make heads heavy. Instead, the stepper motors will be held in a specific way, as can be seen in the picture.

9.IMG_0704_preview_featured